Saturday, July 30, 2011

A Very Strange Week

Sometimes it seems nothing works... All within the last few days - the hot-water heater shut off (no idea what happened, had to reset the controller), the UnRAID server died after working trouble-free for more than a year straight, now it shuts down after 15-30 minutes after reboots. Urgh! At first, I could not access it via the network, which led me to think that the on-board ethernet port was busted, alas, it turned out that was not it at all.

Since one of the fans on the server was dying and made loud noises, I decided to get them replaced, first I ordered them on Taobao, from the model number Delta 1208, the search showed it was a type "8025" fan, so that was what I ordered. But of course, they turned out to be too small, the correct size is 9mm not 8mm, so lesson learned again, don't just trust the search, measure the damn thing to make sure.

Anyway, pissed off at the mistake, I then head off to the local computer mall hoping to "quickly" find the 9mm fans, since I remember a place specializes in case cooling and fans, I went there directly - but the damn place is gone. Walking around the mall did not turn up anything, so I went across the street to another mall, same thing - oh well, this place did have them but wanted RMB38 each for it, which I know is more than double the actual retail price online, so my whole morning was shot. I swear, I am never going to one of these frigging PC malls again, the service sucks, you get harassed, hustled and you may still not get the parts that you want, so fuck them!

Back to Taobao I went, they were delivered promptly the next morning, it just goes to show why go to the physical malls and put up with all that shit? So in went the new fans, they are nice and quiet, so one thing out of the way. But the server would boot up fine, worked for may be 30 minutes then shut off again, so the old fans might be noisy but they were not causing the problem after all, the chassis was still getting airflow, and there wasn't that much heat to dissipate anyway in the server.

After some more troubleshooting, I discovered that the power supply was definitely shot, this came as a surprise because the Corsair TX 750 was the most robust and costly one that I have! WTF... I submitted a RMA request with the company online, hopefully they will respond shortly, the unit is suppose to have a 5-Year warranty period. But even if they give me a new one, I would still be disappointed at the short-life span of the one that I bought...

I then swapped out the Corsair with a generic PS, which has only 3 SATA connectors, so I had to splice in two more for the server, hopefully it has enough juice to run the server in the interim while I get the Corsair repaired.

Here is the shot of the UnRAID array when it is fully operational, so it took me four frigging days just to get the server back online, what a pain.

In a way, the server went offline at a "good time" because Lao Hu took my OB speakers for some finishing work but after a whole damn week, I just found out that nothing has been done to them, why the hell did he take them in the first place then?!

In any case, I can't listen to any music in the study while I work, and the silence really stinks! Not only that, it has taken nearly a month since I ordered some speakers made by Lao Hu - one pair of OB with plywood (replacing the MDF prototype), and one 10" guitar cabinet based on AX84 design, yet I got nothing so far... Is it really that hard to put them together?! Sometimes I just want to get the damn table saws and tools so I can build them myself, but since I am really not that handy with power tools, I'd better stick with the electronic stuff... It is however very irritating to wait for something that never show up on time...

In any case, I just can't remember a week where so many things seem to go haywire all at the same time, let's hope next week will be an improvement...

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Tube Breadboard Power Supply

It has taken me awhile, but I finally managed to put together the power supply section for the tube breadboard. The delay was primarily caused by all the hardware - the frigging screws, washers, connectors, etc. It was very irritating that small things like this could be such a PITA, wiring things up was a breeze compared to getting these parts, perhaps it was because I am starting from scratch, and I had no spare parts from other projects, anyway, I think I have actually spend more money and time on sourcing these buggers than the active components! WTF...

As shown in the shot, the power supply except for the tube rectifier and the power transformer is housed in a surplus power supply casing, with the silicon rectifiers, caps, and resistors mounted on a perf-board, the solder pads on these perf-board are totally shit, so basically the whole thing was wired point-to-point... All the connections to the board are available via connectors, so it will be easy to dis-assemble, or modify later as required. The case also puts high voltage out of reach... All the external connections are routed to the terminal strip on the back of the power supply module, and makes easy connection to the tube amp bread-board module.

Here is a shot of the power supply module, ready for the amp board...

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Where My Damn Tools At?

While I managed to build the Fender kit and Fat Booster/Bastard without much difficulty, after going through the various DIY sites, it is pretty clear that I need more tools! The selection of tools available to the hobbyist is quite daunting, one can easily spend thousand Dollars not Yuan on these things. Of course, it is possible to do the job with your everyday handyman tools, which I already have, but to get decent results from them, one need to be very creative and/or very good with tools, which I am not, so the solution is to get "professional quality" tools to compensate for my own shortcomings.

Aside from the typical small tools like - table vice, metal/wood files, tweezers, center punch, metal shear, step drill bits, etc. I found that to fabricate PCBs and cutting holes in chassis, I really should have both a drill press and a high speed cutter/grinder a la Dremel tool, then there is whole business of drilling PCB holes, which I never knew required very high speed drill speed (60,000-over 100,000 rpm!)

Please bear in mind that people have done PCBs for years with nothing but Drumel tools, or even power/portable hand drills, so it can definitely be done. But these options just do not seem like the right way to me... I am definitely not going to attempt drilling holes in the PCBs free hand style... At the other end of the spectrum is a mini CNC machine, which has dropped in price over the years, and many are available for around 2,000-5000 yuan (~$350-800), which is well within the reach of the hobbyist, but there seems to be a pretty steep learning curve with all the CAD. CNC control software involved, so it may be worth a look in the future but not now. If I can find a shop that not only sells the CNC machines, but can also provide training and support, I will definitely get one, since not only I can eliminate the need for heat or UV image transfers to the PCBs, chemical etching (the worst part), manual hole drilling, it can also mill the elaborate designs for the stompboxes directly. The whole idea just really appeals to me.

Anyway, back to reality, I decided for now, just get the following:
1) a bench drill press (13mm),
2) high speed jewler drill/polish set and
3) drill press adapter for the high speed drill.

All three will cost me only about 500 yuan, so why not. I will also order some Tungsten Carbide drill bits to try them with the high speed drill, since the max rotation speed is only 30,000 rpm, these bits may or may not work (I have seen posts on both online), anyway they are cheap enough, so it is worth a try.

Here is the drill press that I plan to order (280 yuan or $43), it is darn cheap and has good
specs, hopefully it won't be a POS like many things Made In China.











Here is the high speed drill press adapter (70 yuan or $11), it looks pretty cheap, hope it doesn't tip over when I work... But it looks like the Drumel drill press stand that I saw online.








Here is the high speed drill kit (76 yuan or $12), the max rotation speed is 30,000 rpm. It can be used with metal blades to cut PCBs as well. Of course, grinding and polishing the stompboxes, I think this should come in very handy.


Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Building A Parts Inventory - The Zen of Taobao



As I gear up for my amp and pedal board builds, the first task was to build up a parts inventory, well it turned out not so easy - in China, there is no Digi-key, Antique Radio Supplies, Angela Instrument, Mojo Amps, etc. to meet the demand of the DIY market, I am so jealous of the people in the US, who can just go to a few solid sources and get all the parts, here I had to resort to order from multiple vendors via Taobao over several weeks of searching - thus the name of this post.

First, I must say that Taobao is quite impressive, you can source almost anything through it, its root with Alibaba is clearly apparent, it is The Place to hawk your wares in China, even office workers, students have open stores on Taobao. Where is your Taobao store?!

Overall, I think Taobao is even better than eBay, but then again I have not used eBay for quite sometime, so who knows... Unlike eBay, the site is not auction driven, so everything is available for "Buy It Now". But like most of the Chinese websites, the Taobao site is tacky and hard to look at, the site is too busy and chaotic to the eyes of a "western eye" like me, may be I lived in the States for too long but I really can not stand the look and feel of the typical Chinese websites, I think there is definitely a culture reason to explain why that is so... Any, back to the topic at hand.

Anyway, it took me two solid weeks of Taobao-ing to gather the parts, some came easily, but some were surprisingly hard to track down, in nay event, I manged to get 90% of the parts that I needed, so some modifications to the designs will have to be made later, it could get interesting, being the lazy person that I am, I really just wanted to get all the parts as specified, but that is not to be...

The Zen of Taobao - be patient and use the search engine wisely, while I tried my best in translating everything from English to Chinese for the parts, but not knowing the actual or proper names of them in Chinese was frustrating, since electric parts are not common everyday terms that people use, I can't just ask someone "how do you say xyz in Chinese", so the process to determine the proper names for the parts turned to to be rather time-consuming and tedious...

Typically when you do a search on Taobao, hundreds of matching parts will pop up, or the opposite happens, either way, lots of fine-tuning in the search terms were needed, you will also see some vendors purposely put multiple parts under the same category or worse, just fraudsters low-balling the price to get traffic to their stores, so the first thing to do is to weed out those "fillers" and drill down to some real vendors with actual items of interest.

Once you get to the store, it will still take sometime to get the exact item that you want, but because all the vendors are using the same Taobao storefront engine, one can usually navigate through the store with ease, but I must warn you that it is very easy to get side-tracked - many foolish items were ordered because of this, even though I tried my hardest not to be temped by the "shop window", I still ended up with a bunch of parts that I probably don't really need.

Anyway, before you get to the shopping cart, you need to double-check the inventory with the vendor, usually via Alibaobao or QQ. Make sure that they have the parts in stock before you hit the check out button - you can of course cancel or change the order later, but it takes a bit of extra work, so best to just ask and make sure... As it is often the case, you will need to get the vendor to adjust the shipping rate, as a majority of them do not bother to use the Taobao program properly to group the orders together and figure out the proper shipping rate, instead you get charged for every single item that you order so it is possible to get a shipping rate larger than your actual order, really!? Why can't shopkeepers spend sometime getting that basic thing right?!

For small orders, and there were many, I had to source some of the parts locally at Cai Ge Electronic Market, which is a topic for another day. The unit price there are usually 25-100% higher than those shown on Taobao, WTF, you say. For electronic parts, especially passive parts, it is quite common for the vendor to establish a minimum order like 100 or 1000 pieces, you can of course find vendors that are willing to sell a piece or two to you, but be prepare to pay top yuan for such orders. Every time I shop at Cai Ge, I felt like I was ripped off, because when the vendors know that you are just a hobbyist (your small order gives it away) - a small fry, they really have little incentive to treat you fairly, it is "get as much you can while you can" with them, bastards!

It turned out that sourcing components for the tube amps was relatively easy, first of all, the part count are much smaller than the pedal boxes and because there are many specialists that cater to the burgeoning tube DIY market in China, it makes ordering parts a pretty simple process. I will do a post on some of those stores later.

While it was relatively easy to source the parts for the tube amps, I still wasted a lot of time and wasted energy because I could not make up my mind to turret boards, epoxy boards with through holes, or just point-to-point? Each method requires its own special parts which take time to track down. In addition, like the cheap bastard that I am, I just wasn't about to fork out top yuan to get the audiophile-quality parts, which were all readily available, so I have no one to blame in this case. I saved money but at what cost?! Even with my cheap-ass way of parts selection, I think out of everything, a surprising 20% may be even more were spent on the stupid hardware, i.e., the parts that do not even make any damn sound at all! Let's not even get into whole issue with the chassis now, that is another can of worms, and will discussed in due course later.

But getting the parts for the pedals was another story altogether. Man! I really did not think it would be this difficult, for example, just for the transistors, I had to order them from half a dozen stores and I am still short of a couple of them... It was also difficult to track down a common part like the potentiometer, unless of course if you want to pay more than 8 yuan for one cheap carbon comp pot! May be I am just being too cheap as usual...

Even though a single pedal may just contain a few parts, given the large number of pedals that I want to try out (I set my sights high ;-), I still had to order a lot of parts, especially the transistors, resistors and capacitors, some of which turned out may be obsolete or very hard to get, especially with some of the older designs. Many a time, I thought for all the yuan I was spending, I could have bought all the pedals I ever need, why do I put up with all this bull shit?But then I think what is the fun in that? Did I not start this whole project with the intention to try out different pedal designs, and to learn/refresh my basic electronic knowledge which is unfortunately woefully lacking these days...

There are many takeaways from this saga so far, first, proper planning is a must, or as they say "measure twice, cut once". Since there are so many plans available for the amp and pedal build, I probably bit off a bit more than I can chew by try to build so many different ones all at once, this may be partly justified by the fact that it is very inefficient to order parts in small quantity, if I do that I might as well just buy the finished amp or pedal, as there is not much difference in price after you factor in all the time, energy that goes into an exercise like this... I guess we will see if my "efficiency theory" will work out or not.

I did a quick calculation, so far, I have "invested" close to 10,000 yuan in the parts, some were no doubt impulse purchases, I mean do I really need to have hundreds of knobs, am I really going to use them all? How many pedals can I build or use?! But in the heat of reading diystompboxes.com, AX84, SEWatt, etc. it was very easy to got carried away and start ordering parts like a mad man, oh well, there is always the Salvation Army to haul my junk away later.

With the last of the parts coming in the next few days, I am finally ready to bread-board some amps and pedals, I am also relieved not to be spending hours and hours going through Taobao, looking for those damn parts, my eyes really could use a break!

Another side note, my experiences with the orders have been just great so far, most of the orders were delivered within two days, even on weekends. I didn't have a single order screwed up because of the delivery company. Another finding was that, most of the orders were carefully packed, labeled, and stuffed into the boxes for shipping, good job I say!

This post is really getting too long, be back with more later...


Saturday, July 2, 2011

Tube Amp Test Rig

Finally got around to put together a guitar amp test rig for trying out different designs, the idea came from several experienced builders online, my version is based on a cheap Chinese amp kit, since I don't have the time nor the skill to make the rig from scratch.

Here is a picture of the chassis before the conversion with a lighter for scale. The chassis is actually a bit crammed for a multi-stage guitar amp, but it will have to do for now. The chassis came with 5 pre-cut holes for 8-pin tubes, so I ordered some 8-to-9 pin adapter plates to mount the 9-pin triodes that are typically used in guitar amps onto the chassis.



Here is a shot with the terminal strips taped to the chassis with double side tape, not ideal, I may have to drill some holes so they stay put, they already moved around when was wiring up the power supply... Anyway, these strips form the "bread-board", so I have the ability to change the passive parts easily without having to solder, or if parts substitution can improve the sound, even modify the design to tweak it to suit my own taste.

Side note, I quickly found out why these friggin' Chinese kits are so cheap (I paid RMB458 for a stereo amp with all the parts) - because they are cheaply made, duh! The chassis is full of sharp corners, the un-finished edges are like shrapnel that can slice the fingers, knuckles if one is not careful, I already got a few cuts, ouch!

The first thing I did was to wire up the power section, transformer, rectifier, choke, filter caps, and the heater wires, since the PS is pretty much the same in all the amps. I don't plan to spend much time tweaking the PS. Although, I may add a switch later for selecting solid state or tube rectifier to see how that affect the sound.

Here is a shot of the heater wiring which unfortunately wasn't done the "proper way" i.e., twist, measure, cut to length then solder (should have read the online tutorial before I started wiring), I just wire them point to point then twisted the wires... For the actual build, I will definitely do it the proper way!

Tomorrow the whole rig should be wired and functional, I will then start bread-boarding a AX84 build, probably the High Octane SE, but with a different PT. Can't wait!





Workbench


Finally got around to setup the workbench, the desk is bit shallow but should be sufficient for most projects, here is the shot of what it looks like without anything on the bench, it won't stay like this long...


Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Summer Project Galore!

DIY fever!! Can't stop thinking about all these cool projects on diyaudio, diystompboxes, ax84, 18Watt, etc. I need to get better organized with multiple projects going on, let's see now:

Speaker Projects:
OB - prototype is done, sounds pretty good already with only may be 50 hours of play so far, will ask the carpenter to get the plywood and hardware ready for finished speaker
Frugel-Horn Mk3- the Mark Audio drivers are unfortunately in the States still, Edwin will bring them back after the summer, so on the back burner for now...
- Constant Directivity - again missing the horn, can't do much now...

Guitar Amp Projects:
- Finished Fender 5F2-A mod, need to put it in a decent head cabinet, will get the carpenter to do it at the same time as the OB speaker cabinet, need to order some grill and front face plate to dress it up.
- Test bed for tube amp, all the parts are here just need to spend sometime to put it all together, should be done by this weekend.
- Need to decide the next amp build for bread-boarding, probably still stay with SE design this time around, may be a higher gain model...

Pedals
- Putting together a parts list, most of the passive parts, switches, jacks are sourced and ready to be ordered.
- Need to decide which pedals to build, some candidates include: LPB2, Lovetone Brown Source, Mr. Skyripper, Shin-I Companion, OLCcircuit Eclipse Valve, Parallel Universe, BISAB, Cream Pie, DOD 250 (MXR Distortion+), Digitech Space Station. Some of the above are not beginner projects, so I will start with some real simple ones like the DOD 250.
Here is the basic steps that I am thinking of, to get myself organized:

1. Decide which pedals to build;
2. Setup test bench, basically just a pre-made bread-board, power supply, and some connectors to get started;
3. order the parts;
4. put the parts on the bread-board, wire and test, listen, tweak, listen, etc.
5. put the finalized design on pref-board, prepare the wires for final assembly;
6. use CAD to do parts layout, prepare template for drilling holes in the chassis (may be standardize the locations of the input, output and power jacks, so the layout could be re-used);
6. prepare the chassis for graphic transfer - sand, clean, fine sanding, make sure the surface is super smooth, so the graphic will stick properly;
7. find the right graphic for the box, transfer and glue the image onto the box, trim the edges off, paint with light varnish several times, let dry and finish up with heavy car wax, mount the hardware onto the box and go for a test drive!
8. future to do - etch the image directly onto the box (looks so cool), and make my own PCBs which is basically the same process as etching the box, not sure it is worth it at this point as the wiring is very easy with so few parts, but definitely try it with larger and more complicated designs.

That's about it. Lots to do, but it will be fun!!

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Setting Up An Electronic Prototype Workbench

For DIY speaker projects, I'd love to set up a lab, stock it up with drivers, crossover parts and really experiment and build some of these projects instead of just reading them online. After all, nothing beats the real thing, and to hear them.

Well I quickly realize that I lack the skill or space to build speakers at home, so I will just ask the carpenters to build the cabinets based on my designs, it is not the quickest way and I have to explain to them on how to properly build the speaker as most of them have never build speakers before, but it will have to do for now.

But for my electronic projects, after months of thinking about it, I finally done it! The lab has been setup in Gaby's room, I stocked up on parts, test equipment, tools, etc. Now I can begin prototyping various guitar amp and stompbox designs, as there are so many to try. Since 80% of the work in building amps/pedals is actually the final assemby, i.e., putting all the parts into a nice-looking chassis, it is much better to quickly build a prototype on the bench, make sure the design is good before committing the time and energy to actually put the whole thing together.

The basic test mule chassis will have various connections made via EU-type terminal strips, with all the parts easily accessible from the top of the chassis. The chassis itself can accommodate upto 5 tubes simultaneously, the PT and OT will be mounted on separate sub-chassis to make the whole thing more modular.

I have also purchased some basic test gear for the lab bench - a digital multi-meter, a dual trace oscilloscope (20MHz), and soon a waveform generator. Since I will be working on high voltage, I also got a variac, so I can adjust the AC line voltage. On my shopping list at the moment are - heat shrink tubing, hot air gun, chassis punch, amp gauge (up to 5A), automatic wire stripper, alcohol for cleaning PCBs and solder...





A Simple Stompbox Build

After reading somewhere that using a buffer/booster could improve the sound for PC-based guitar sims - I suppose from proper impedance matching between the guitar and the soundcard, I decided to build one.

The design I chose was the Fat Booster, just a simple FET booster with some level and tone controls added, the schematic is shown below. The design is a derivative of Jack Orman's MOSFET Boost, a very popular design. The unit is very clean as expected, but you have to be careful with the level and gain settings as not to overdrive the other effects down the chain. The kit only costed RMB99 (Chinese red case included), what a bargain;-)

The kit came with 2 PCBs, one is the main board, the other is the footswitch board, which I screwed up big time by turning the switch 90 degrees and made a mess of things, it took a couple of days to discover the stupid mistake :-(

Here are the exterior, interior shots and the schematic:


Fender 5F2-A Build

Saw this cheap Fender 5F2-A (Princeton) kit on Taobao, the whole thing was only RMB345, even including the tubes and transformers! It came with a blue chassis, not bad since the amp is known for its bluesy tone. Here is a picture of the chassis (slightly damaged during shipping). Some of the holes were off, you can see the corrections the shop made... I suppose it is good enough for rock and roll?!


The kit has three PCBs - main board, input/tonestack, and effect loop - no PTP wiring here, stuffing the boards were pretty straight forward after I figured out the the kit was really a hybrid design based on the original Fender Princeton and the ProjectG5 modern day version, the main differences were power supply related - the choke was eliminated, and some of the bias resistor/capacitor values were changed. Here are the pictures of the stuffed main and input/tonestack boards. Notice that the pots have different length shafts, I will need to cut two of them shorter...


Here is a picture of the completed kit - under the chassis, it is really not much there since the components were mounted on the PCBs. I don't like the heater wires running across
the main board but with the input/tonestack board in the way, it did not make much sense to put the heater wires right up against the chassis, oh well...




Here is a shot of the completed kit, it's pretty plain looking, I plan to make some decals for the faceplate to dress it up a bit, what do you expect for RMB345!

I also changed some of the parts, nothing special - 1)
added two 100 ohm heater resistors to the output cathode pin to provide elevated heater in order to reduce hum (while the ProjectG5 design has the resistors, the kit did not come with them); 2) replaced the silly LED circuit on the input board with a single 6.3V lamp; 3) eliminated the NFB resistor and instead installed a "Fat" switch, which is just a 22uF cathode bypass cap for the 2nd pre-amp stage. 4) I also added a 10 Ohm/10W resistor as a dummy load, to prevent the output from arcing due to an open output, i.e., when no speaker is plugged in.

The sound from the amp is pretty clean, breaking into a mild distortion when volume is all the way up with a small Marshall 6.5". I am building a "proper cabinet" using an Eminence Raging Cajun 10" - I bet the combo will be louder and and meaner sounding... So stayed tuned!

Of course, the sound could be improved even more with better tubes, it currently runs with tubes that came with the kit, which are Chinese-made 6N4 and 6P6P. I plan to change them to 12AX7A and EL84 if I can find some cheap ones online.

The build is good for amp builders just starting out, like myself. The 5F2-A's design could not be simpler - 2 tube-Single End, while the non-original FMA tone stack give it a bit more knobs to fiddle with, really the amp could probably make do with just a simple tone knob like many of the minimalist boutique amps on the market.

Some lessons learned:

1. always double check the connections multiple times, it is simple errors and dumb assumptions that always get you!
2. always use good wires, connectors and the proper tools, otherwise, you either waste time or end up with a crappy looking kit.

Finally, the revised schematic of the build.









Thursday, May 19, 2011

DIY Guitar Amp with Mods

So after reading all about the various amp designs online, I just had to build one and try it... It has to be a all-tube amp, I was going to order the Ceriatone kit based on the famed Dumble OTS design. But since shipping it to China might be a bit of hassle, not to mention being way more power than what I need. But for the price US$450, it is very tempting.


Browesing through Taobao, I came across a simple 5W amp based on the Fender Princeton '65 design, the kit has three band tone control and send/return loop, but basically just a simple 12AX7 based amp.

The schematic is:
I will build it and play with it for awhile to see how it sounds, I will use the 12AX7 tubes from my old Houston integrated amp instead of the stock tubes that it comes with.

I may also fool around with the tone control values to see the amp's tone could be improved, there are many designs available, from the Dumble tone-stack to Peavey IIC as shown below.

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Real Amps vs. Guitar Sims

Yet more things to think about... Even with a cheapo Marshall (transistor too the horror) or a Vox Valvetronix combo, it is just quicker to get a usable sound than fussing around with the guitar sims on the computer. Many online complain about the sims as "plastic" or "lifeless" sounding vs. the real thing, I am not sure how the tests were done, or what the various gears were used, but there seems to be a consensus among guitarists that real amps especially tube ones driving real speaker cabinet is still the way to go after all that's what they were designed for!!

For the guitar sims to sound good, there seem to be some options such as driving them with some OD or other effects ahead of the soundcard, use IR cabinet sims (instead of the stock ones in the sims themselves or just use the amp sim output and send the signal back out to a real amp/speaker. May be worth trying out later...

There is also an issue with the sound level, as we know, that the "tone" of amps, especially tube ones are only apparent when they are driven hard - where tube and speaker saturation and power supply sag kick in but that means playing very loud levels - a problem for most people playing at home. The Vox does have a output soaker to retain the distortion at low volume, so that helps.

In one of the online discussion group, someone made an astute observation, without actual test results to back it up though, but intuitively it makes sense, what he said was that the guitar sims all fail at simulating non-linear distortion, while it is easy to simulate effects like chorus, phase, delay, etc. Non-linear distortion generated by the tube and speaker combo is very hard to achieve in software, they come close but just never quite getting there due to precisely the non-linear, random nature of the distortion involved.

The learning continues...

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Guitar Rig Setup



For the past few months, I have been building up my guitar rig - both standard and via computer sims. Here is a summary of the current setup:

Pedals
ProCo RAT -> MXR Phase 90 -> Ibanez DE7, Fat Basterd and the latest addition, Dunlop ZW-45 Zakk Wylde Custom
Cry Baby.

Guitar Amps
Vox Valvetronix 15
Marshall MC15CDR

Both amps are small combo type made for bedroom practice, but they are plenty loud already. The Vox Valvetronix uses a 12AX7 tube as power tube to drive the transistor stage - yes, the amp does not have tube output, I should have looked closer before purchasing the amp... But after programming some of the user submitted settings from Valvetronix.com, the amp does not sound half-bad, so it is a keeper for now... There are also some DIY mods that may be considered - 1) an effect loop kit, and 2) a DIY VF55 foot-switch.

Nothing special about the Marshall, as it was purchased for Gaby to practice her guitar when we were in Singapore, it is just a cheapo 15W transistor combo with the FDD distortion, gonna sell it soon I think.

Computer Based Guitar Simulators
After researching online, I demo'd a few of the well-known sims on the market - Guitar Rig 4, AmpliTube 3, Overloud TH2, and Peavey Valvelator Mk III. So far, I like TH2 the best, but its UI does take a bit getting use to. AmpliTube came with good reviews but the most troubling aspect though was the MIDI implementation, I could not get it to work at all under Ableton Live.

When I started using the guitar sims, I just plugged the guitar straight into the AudioFire input, because the level was too low, I then use a Radio Shack "Hi-Z to Low-Z" adaptor between the guitar and the small mixer, then into the AudioFire. I did manag to boost the level (with the mixer) which matched the impedance a bit better.

But of course, this was not the right way to do it as I soon found out - the Radio Shack adaptor was still a poor load for the guitar, which really required a high impedance load (typically 1M), where as the Radio Shack had at most 25K, so a lot of the highs were rolled off from the guitar, not an ideal solution.

I also tried using the headphone output from the Vox, after pulling the plug out one click from the jack based on the suggestion at the Valvetronix online forum, unfortunately, the level is still too low, with barely any level registering on the Ableton input.

Reading further online, there are many tempting DIY projects for guitar preamps, anything from simple opamp buffers to full-blown preamps based on classic designs. Since simple is never good enough for me - where is the fun in that! - I am digging deeper into it, at the end, I am not sure just how good the preamp will make me sound or really make that much a difference to the guitar sims, but it sure is fun to go through some of the designs and admire some of the great DIY projects. See the Fat Booster/Fat Basterd that I built for more...

Stay tuned...